Not
as
"gooey"
as
Scotch
tape,
splicing
tape
comes
in
16mm
and
35mm
rolls,
complete
with
pre-cut
perf
holes
(you
must
always
leave
the
perf
holes
on
film
unobstructed
by
splicing
tape).
Never
use
old
splicing
tape,
always
buy
a
fresh,
new
roll
of
tape
so
it
holds
together
well.
Tape
splicing
requires
you
to
use
a
splicing
block
-
not
a
hot
splicer
(they
cut
ends
differently).
Tape
splices
are
used
to
edit
work
prints
and
mag-track.
To
make
a
tape
splice,
simply
align
the
film
ends
on
the
block
so
their
cut
ends
are
butted
squarely
against
one
another.
Then
fix
a
small
portion
of
tape
over
the
registration
pins
on
the
block
that
the
film
perfs
are
engaged.
The
idea
is
to
tape
the
pieces
together,
so
have
the
tape
in
full
contact
with
both
pieces
of
film
and
rub
it
on
good.
Yes,
it
does
matter
which
end
you
paste
to
which
and
both
emulsions
must
be
facing
in
the
same
up
or
down
direction;
otherwise
your
images
will
be
mirror
flopped
or
running
upside-down
and
backwards.
Always
take
careful
note
of
the
heads,
tails,
A-wind,
B-wind
orientation
of
your
film.
Use
clear
splice
tape
for
picture
(opaque
splice
tape
is
for
mag-track
only).
Tape
splicers
cut
film
in
a
way
that
cuts
exactly
between
two
frames.
When
taped,
the
film
perfs
do
not
overlap
like
a
hot
splice.
