The
most
sturdy
method
of
cementing
two
pieces
of
film
together
is
called
a
"hot
splice."
This
method
(first
developed
in
a
delicatessen
in
Fort
Lee,
New
Jersey)
requires
slight
overlapping
of
the
film
ends
and
cementing
both
together.
To
provide
better
adhesion,
the
emulsion
of
one
film
end
is
scraped
ragged
and
the
base
of
the
other
film
end
is
also
scraped
ragged.
These
small
nooks
and
crannies
give
the
glue
dovetails
(more
actual
surface
area)
on
which
to
adhere,
making
a
stronger
weld
between
the
two
spliced
ends
(the
same
way
you
have
to
sand
metal
before
you
paint
it,
so
the
new
paint
doesn't
peel
off
the
slick
surface).
Hot
splicers
come
in
two
types,
ones
that
work
and
ones
that
don't.
Plug
it
in,
if
it
doesn't
heat
up
-
it's
broken.
As
long
as
it
heats
and
has
registration
pins
on
which
to
align
the
two
ends
of
film,
it's
probably
a
good
one.
De-burr
and
polish
anything
on
it
that
might
scratch
your
film.
The
hot
splicer
heats
up
to
dry
the
cement
faster
than
you
blowing
on
it.
Don't
blow
dust
on
your
splice
-
that's
why
it's
heated.
The
splice
must
remain
on
the
hot
block
until
the
glue
has
completely
dried.
This
takes
about
10
to
15
seconds.
These
splices
are
painstakingly
slow
to
make
but
should
be
used
if
you
are
cutting
an
original
negative.
In
fact,
this
is
the
method
negative
cutters
use.
NOTE:
Hot
splicers
cut
film
in
a
way
that
a
perf
from
each
frame
overlap.
